Nicaragua: Part 1

Ometepe Island from the ferry.

Three days on Ometepe Island just wasn't enough. This figure-eight shaped island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua has a lot to offer, but we had way too little time to see it! We got there early Wednesday after driving all morning (we left at 2am!) and after an hour and a half ferry ride across the almost ocean-sized lake, we arrived at our hostel: Hacienda Merida.

A view from Maderas Volcano

Ometepe was named by some of its original discoverers and inhabitants who came from Mexico in search of the legend of the island with 2 mountains (ome = 1 and tepetl = mountains). The 2 mountains are actually volcanos; Concepción (around 1600 mts), an almost perfect cone cutting through the clouds is still active and growing every year, and Maderas (around 1300 mts), its slightly smaller but nonetheless exciting sister. The 2 volcanos split the island in 2 and create its iconic shape.

The crater lagoon at the top of Maderas Volcano.

SFS, with the help of Achim, led us up Maderas as the pioneer SFS group to help map the trail system. The hike took a total of 7 hours with an elevation gain of about 1200 meters in total. Not an easy climb, but super rewarding with the beautiful views and serene crater lagoon at the top where we stopped for lunch. On the way down, we were greeted and cheered through the finish line by a family of 8 howler monkeys!

Even though those who climbed Maderas were exhausted, we did another hike the next day. After group lectures on invasive species (specifically Tilapia in Lake Nicaragua) and emerging diseases from climate change, we hiked another 3 km to a beautiful waterfall on the opposite side of Maderas. The hike was rough, but we made it and were rewarded with a roaring cascade down through the cloud forest. Of course the only reaction is to get right in and feel its awesome power thunder down around you and return it back with a roar of your own.

Anna (one of the interns), Benji,
and I at the waterfall.

The island holds plenty of other secrets too. After living in Costa Rica, Nicaragua is a big contrast, probably because it is the 2nd poorest country in Central America (after Haiti). Ometepe is no exception, but despite this, the people seem relatively happy with their subsistent farming lives. Pigs, oxen, horses, goats, and stray dogs roam the rocky, unpaved streets. The houses are small and unfinished, usually cut from the surrounding trees. Kids try to sell you fruit from their front steps. And yet everyone is eager to share their culture, always with a smile!


A lot of their lives revolve around the lake, one of the biggest in Central America; fishing being a huge part of their industry and culture. I swam everyday while there. At first all afternoon and into the sunset while in the shadow of the 2 towering volcanos, one morning before our breakfast, and even in a naturally purified waterhole on the isthmus between the 2 volcanos. This island is a beautiful escape and reward and I was sad to say goodbye. I would love to someday come back!


Other highlights:

• I completed my first back-flip off a rope swing at the waterhole! It only took me about 20 tries...
• There were some great times spent on the dock of Hacienda Merida. Both swimming by day and philosophizing by night
• Birdwatching with Edgardo one morning:
• red-billed pigeon
• yellow warbler
• osprey
• black vultures
• king bird
• Caracara
• plenty of parrots and parakeets
• Met a cool australian/american couple on their extended 7 month honeymoon. They've pretty much been around the world and I couldn't be more jealous. I just want to travel forever!

"We are swimming in a waterfall, on a volcano, on an island, in a lake, in Nicaragua...!" -Mike